I just finished reading THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO SURFING by Peter Dixon only after a few days. That's quite fast considering that this book is like the encyclopedia of the surfing world! I guess, I really am THAT interested in this sport. I learned that surfing is not just about having fun at catching waves, but it's also about learning to watch the nature of the water and my fellow surfers as well so I could enhance my knowledge of the ocean and the sport.
I have to be respectful of the lineup and very good at swimming with strong physical and emotional health before I can master or even just enjoy surfing. Once I'm confident of my capabilities (meaning, ready to be wiped out on so many occasions) then I am ready to learn various
moves and tricks. I'll definitely be stoked! Well, I already am!